First thing on the list is the wings. When you buy the kit the wings are usually in 2 pieces and need to be joined. To do this you need to use Epoxy glue (Araldite or similar) and you must ensure that the centre brace in the wing and all the other contact areas are thoroughly coated in glue. Make sure that all covering material is removed from the area to be joined so you are joining wood to wood only. When you bring the 2 pieces together they should butt up with no gap between them. When dry this will produce a wing that will be very strong and won't break in flight (yes we have snapped a few)
Next we will fix on the Tail surfaces of your Plane, first of all these must be perfectly aligned or your plane will not fly correctly. To align the tail when you are gluing it in place, Fit the wings to the model and using a piece of string measure the distance between the edge of the tail and a corner of the wing on each side and adjust the tail so that the distance is equal on both sides. The Tail should also be level with the wings when viewed from behind. When gluing on the Tail of the Plane also use Epoxy and ensure that all covering material is removed from join areas otherwise your Tail could come off in flight (Yes it has happened) remember wood to wood joints only .Follow the same procedure for all flight surfaces.
If you are required to fit the hinges to any of the control surfaces, these must be glued into place using either a contact adhesive or epoxy. Dry fit the surface first with the hinges and ensure that it can move freely in either direction without binding or pulling on the hinges. Remove the control surface and the hinges from the slots and coat one half of each hinge with adhesive (also try to get a bit in the slot), then fit the hinges into the wing, tail or fin and allow to dry. When dry repeat on the other side of the hinge and fit the control surface. You should be able to give the control surface a strong tug without it trying to pull out. If in doubt you can also peg the hinges into place by inserting and gluing a piece of cocktail stick through the hinge as well.
When installing Servos all of the supplied inserts for the servo mounting lugs (look like a small piece of metal tube with one end belled over) should be inserted into the rubber grommets from below. This stops the mounting screws from crushing the lugs on the Servo and the little bell stops the tube from digging into the mounting rail. This provides maximum insulation from vibration. All Servo output arms should be at 90deg to the pushrod when at neutral position so you have an equal amount of movement available each side of neutral
The Receiver and batteries should be wrapped in sponge and firmly secured in the fuselage as the last thing you want in flight is weight shifting around or something getting disconnected. The sponge is very important as we need to protect our Radio equipment from vibration which could cause it to fail
The Fuel Tank also needs to be well insulated from vibration and should be held firmly but not packed solid with sponge. Try to avoid the tank actually touching any of the wooden structure if necessary cutting some away with a sharp knife. The Tank should be mounted in the best position possible, which is with the centre line of the tank inline or approximately 1cm below the main needle valve of the engine. If this is not possible then mount the tank as close to this guideline as you can.
With the throttle trim on the Transmitter in the middle and the stick pushed fully forward the carburettor should be fully open. With the trim in the same place and the stick pulled right back the barrel should be open approximately 1mm to 2mm. With the trim pulled right back the barrel should be completely closed. If necessary adjust the throttle stop screw on the carburettor to prevent the Servo from hitting it and stalling (humming)
The biggest problem with most trainers is that they are provided with steer-able nose legs. These are no use on grass and will probably damage the Rudder servo so you will need to lock this up in the straight ahead position and obviously not connect it to the servo.

What Next?
Your Plane is built, everything seems OK so now the first flight is near. As much as you think it's perfectly finished it probably isn't. This is where an experianced eye comes in handy.
Put all your equipment on charge overnight before you come down the club and make sure you have all your equipment ready to go.
When you first arrive at the field an instructor will do a thorough check and test flight of your Plane. If there are any problems (there usually are) we will try our hardest to solve them there and then.
After the first successful trimming flight the Instructor will land and give you a short briefing on how the controls effect the plane and what he wants you to do.
That's it, you've taken the hardest step. It isn't easy and you will get frustrated from time to time, but stick in.

Finally, never try to fly without proper instruction as you will crash and more than likely within the first few feet from the ground. We provide free instruction and don't ever feel like you ar
e being a burden because that is what we are here for. Seeing a new modeller from total beginner to solo gives our instructors great satisfaction.
These are just a few tips to help the beginner on their way but if you have a question that is not covered here please feel free to contact us and ask.

Engine choice

ARTF (Almost Ready To Fly) Trainers are undoubtedly the best way for the newcomer to go when it comes to learning to fly. You are practically guaranteed to finish with a model that is straight and reasonably well built, However they do have one major drawback and that is the quality and the Pigeon English translation of the instructions. Also certain components which are no use on a grass strip such as ours (or the majority of clubs) are usually included with these models. So the object of this page is to try to help you to finish the model so you can start flying on your first visit to the field.
When you first arrive at our flying field an experienced instructor will inspect your model for airworthiness and unfortunately this is where most newcomers get their first knock back due to assembly errors which are not their fault but the fault of the kit importer who hasn't put proper instructions in with the kit.

One of the things that puts a lot of people off this hobby is an unreliable engine. The local Model Shop will probably try and sell you a cheaper engine with your Plane i.e. MDS. Now while there is nothing wrong with these engines in the hands of an experienced modeller (I have several myself), there is nothing more frustrating to the beginner than the engine constantly cutting out in mid air with the result that you only get short stabs at the controls and spend the rest of the time walking to and from the pit area starting your Engine. So I would recommend that you spend a little extra and buy a good quality engine that will give you years of good service and enjoyment. Some examples are Irvine, O.S. and Super Tigre.

Centre of Gravity
One of the most important settings on your plane is the CG (centre of gravity). Read the instructions carefully to find out the correct position and then with the wings fitted place a finger either side of the fuselage under the wing on the correct CG position and the model should sit level or very slightly nose down. If you have bought the plane with no instructions provided a good guide for a trainer is to set the CG at 25% to 30% of the chord (width) of the wing, measured from the front